Autumn in Osaka

Osaka Castle

After an amazing 6 weeks at home, I was ready to start my second year in Japan at a new job and in a new city. Last year my job determined the city, and I was happy to land where I did, but this year I choose the city and then set about finding a job. Thanks to my ridiculous good luck and the golden goose that is Zamami Island, my plan worked out way better than I could have imagined. I only saw Osaka for a weekend before moving here, but I instantly liked it and knew I wanted to live here.

Amongst my well traveled friends, the word is that Tokyo is to New York as Osaka is to Philadelphia. Tokyo is known for its status as the biggest city in the world, seas of black suits and briefcases, crowded trains, and infinite expanse of concrete and neon. Osaka's fame lies in its people and food. It is the home town of nearly every comedian in Japan, and epicenter of the famous Osaka-ben, a local dialect that resonates as warm and goofy to match the spirit of its residents. Osaka's scale is much more manageable as well, having 2.5 million people as opposed to Tokyo's 27 million. I adore Tokyo and know it better than I do New York, but I have been missing that sense of ownership, for lack of a better word, that I felt with Philadelphia. After 5 years in Philly, I knew the short cuts, the traffic light sequenced streets, the secret parking spaces, the best bagel shop, the cheapest happy hours, even a little of the local art and music scenes. In Tokyo, the vastness is just too much to ever get a grip on. I knew some neighborhoods well, but could never really get my bearings on the city as a whole. I think it could easily take 10 years for me to feel any real sense of familiarity with Tokyo.

I don't know if I am going to spend that kind of time in Japan, so I decided to say farewell to Tokyo and make a new start in a city that had called out to me since I arrived, and here I am. I have only lived in Osaka for two months as I write this, but already I have a rapidly expanding circle of friends, a pretty good grip on the layout of the city, a few bars and restaurants that greet me by name, and the beginnings of an Osaka-ben dialect.

I found a great place to live smack in the middle of the city, about a 5 minute walk from Dotonbori steet, the center of the action for food and nightlife in Osaka. Check out my new neighborhood!

Dotonburi Street

Dotonbuti Canal

Dotonburi's famous landmark, the running man

From my house, its about a 20 minute walk to Osaka Castle Park, where I like to go running and is apparently the best place in Osaka for Hanami (Picnic parties under the cherry blossoms). I love having a local castle to jog around, and after my run, I sit on the walls of the moat and watch the koi swim around while I stretch.

Autumn views of Osaka from the observation deck of the Castle

Osaka Castle Park facing East

Looking South over the gold fish finial


A 360 degree view from the base of Osaka Castle

The best part of Osaka is of course the people I explore it with. On my second trip to Zamami island I met 3 friends from Osaka, and now I am lucky enough to see them all the time. I think the personality of Osakans as a whole is a much better match to mine, and I feel like I fit in better in this city (as much as you can describe me as fitting in anywhere in Japan).

Halloween with my girl Midori

Me, Kumiko and Midori on Dotonburi Bridge

An amazing Thanksgiving dinner at Helen and Hiro's house!

I walk to work everyday over two rivers and through a rose garden. It's a 40 minute walk at a good clip, so it's great exercise and I use the time to listen to Japanese lessons on my Ipod. Also, the walk is that much more enjoyable because I'm on my way to a job I absolutely adore, but that's a story for my next post.

My route to work: over the river...

and through the rose garden

To work I go!

Next: the greatest job ever...